IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF ALESSANDRO MANZONI
Lake Como, nestled among the rolling hills of northern Lombardy, has inspired artists and poets for centuries.
Among these, one of the most famous is undoubtedly Alessandro Manzoni, an Italian 19th-century writer and poet whose love for this region is evident in his novels.
Exploring the places that Manzoni described passionately can transport every traveler to a unique atmosphere rich in history and natural beauty.
So, let’s set off on our journey and pack our suitcases with all the desire to explore “ That branch of the Lake of Como, which turns toward the south ” and its surroundings.
THE BETROTHED AND LAKE COMO.
The fantastic view from his Villa in Lecco, “del Caleotto,” inspired the artist to create his most significant work, The Betrothed. The Villa has belonged to the Manzoni family since 1621, the year in which the novel, written and published two centuries later, is set.
The Betrothed set between 1628 and 1630 in Lombardy during the Spanish domination, was the first example of a historical novel in Italian literature.
In 1940, King Vittorio Emanuele III declared the Villa del Caleotto a national monument. Inside, the Civic Manzoni Museum is set up, considered one of the most visited literary museums in Lombardy. Period furniture, prints, autographs, and the first editions of literary novels are exhibited along the museum route.
Visiting the Villa del Caleotto means immersing yourself in the history and beauty of Manzoni’s life and works.
We continue our journey to discover the itineraries created for those who love the novel’s places.
TWO TOURS TO DISCOVER THE PLACES OF THE BETROTHED.
Except for the fishing village of Pescarenico, Manzoni explicitly mentions no other places in Lecco in his most famous novel.
Despite this, since the novel’s first release, commentators have been unleashed to research the places mentioned in the novel, identifying Lucia’s house, Don Abbondio’s church, and Don Rodrigo’s palace, often with conflicting theses.
Today, actual itineraries are designed for tourists who want to discover these fictional places.
We’ll report them here so that you can set off on an adventure with or without the help of a guide.
Itinerary 1. Pescarenico and boat trip.
Once you arrive in Lecco, you can immediately explore the Manzoni Museum. The visit will not take more than one hour.
From there, you can walk to Pescarenico in ten minutes. It was a quiet fishing village in the seventeenth century with a few nice-colored houses.
In the square named after Father Cristoforo, you’ll find the parish church of Saints Materno and Lucia and the Capuchin convent. On the facade, some plaques mention the novel.
Continuing through the narrow, well-preserved fishermen’s streets, you arrive in Piazza Era, the heart of the Pescarenico district, with a suggestive view of the lake.
After having breathed the air of this ancient fishing village, you can take a walk along the lake towards the south, reaching the plaque of the Addio ai monti (a suggestive moment in the novel that describes the night in which Renzo and Lucia leave their hometown to escape Don Rodrigo), or head towards the center of Lecco, from where the cruise on the lake starts.
Continuing the journey, you pass by Piazza Alessandro Manzoni, where a statue of the writer stands: on the base, three famous scenes from The Betrothed are portrayed in bas-relief.
The itinerary continues with the Manzoni boat tour
You can take the ferry at Lungolario Isonzo at the Taxi Boat Tour point.
Here, the Manzonian Tour starts, which lasts about 40 minutes and is an experience not to be missed: from the pier, you travel along the Adda River towards Lake Garlate, observing the village of Pescarenico with the colorful ships moored along the coast, then you return north until you reach Malgrate, from which you have an exceptional view of the Resegone, the famous mountain mentioned by Manzoni, whose peaks have the shape of a saw blade (hence its name).
Itinerary 2. In the villages of Olate and Acquate
Now, the most daring can continue the itinerary in the alleged Manzonian places: the neighborhoods of Olate and Acquate. It takes at least an hour and a half on foot at a brisk pace. However, avoid sweltering days because the streets are sunny and uphill!
Olate
In the neighborhood of Olate, you can find the building that is thought to have inspired Manzoni to be Lucia’s house. It is located in via Caldone 19. At that time, it was a farmhouse belonging to the Airoldi Marchesini family (now it’s a private property; it cannot be visited; there is only an external plaque). In Olate, there is also a presumed Church of Don Abbondio, located in Piazza SS. Vitale e Valeria, which dates back to the beginning of the fifteenth century, was rebuilt several times over the years.
From here, you can go up to Via Allo Zucco, 6, to reach a villa called “lo Zucco,” which overlooks the city. The building inspired the palace of Don Rodrigo (it’s a private property, not open to visitors).
Acquate
Crossing the Caldone stream, you arrive in the Acquate neighborhood.
Here, too, there is a presumed house of Lucia, in via Lucia 27: currently, it houses an inn, so you can access the internal courtyard from which you can see the “another” Zucco, mentioned above. Not far away is the other presumed Church of Don Abbondio, the church of Saint Giorgio Martire, in Piazza Sagrato Don Abbondio.
Finally, you can’t miss the descent via Tonio e Gervasio, at the end of which Manzoni described the famous Tabernacle of the Bravos (today, there are two commemorative plaques). If you follow it from the bottom to the top, you can imagine the two henchmen of Don Rodrigo waiting for you just after turning the road and warning, “This wedding must not take place, neither tomorrow nor ever.”
Finally, suppose you have a bike or a car. In that case, you can also reach the castle of the Unnamed, or rather the remains of a fourteenth-century castle that belonged to the Visconti family in Vergurago, south of Lecco. However, only the walls and bastions remain of the original structure.
Not only The Betrothed, Manzoni praises the beautiful places of the lake, from south to north.
Exploring Lake Como is a journey through natural beauty and history and an opportunity to experience the stories and emotions that have made this place famous worldwide. With its historic villas, enchanting gardens, and panoramic views, Lake Como continues to be an unforgettable experience for anyone who loves Italy’s authentic beauty and romance.
Bellagio: The Pearl of the Lake
Manzoni described Bellagio as a place of great beauty, characterized by its unique location in the center of Lake Como. With its historic villas surrounded by lush gardens and breathtaking views of the lake’s crystal-clear waters, Bellagio is an essential stop for those visiting the region.
Strolling along its elegant lakeside promenades or visiting the Villa Melzi d’Eril, with its Italian gardens, still allows you to relive the romantic atmosphere of Manzoni’s time.
Varenna: A Village Between Nature and History
Varenna is another jewel that fascinated Manzoni with its picturesque character and beauty.
Its historic center, with narrow paved streets and ancient churches, exudes a medieval atmosphere that enchants visitors. The famous Villa Monastero, with its botanical gardens and breathtaking lake views, offers an unforgettable experience for nature and history lovers.
Como: Between history and modernity
Como, the city that gives its name to the lake, perfectly combines history, culture, and modernity. Manzoni described the charm of Como in his novels, highlighting its Gothic cathedral and its museums rich in art and history.
Strolling through the historic center of Como, with its elegant squares and landmark cafés, allows you to fully immerse yourself in this city’s lively and cosmopolitan atmosphere.
Menaggio and Cernobbio: Hidden treasures of the lake
Other places mentioned in Manzini’s works are Menaggio and Cernobbio, two lesser-known but equally fascinating places on Lake Como.
Our Hotel Loveno is located in Menaggio, a magical place offering spectacular views of the lake and the Alpine mountain range. Cernobbio is renowned for its historic villas and lush gardens overlooking the lake shores.
Do not hesitate to ask our staff for information about the places that inspired Alessandro Manzoni. Have fun on Lake Como!
Contact us to discover more info@hotelloveno.com.
– Gaia